A chikankari kurta looks effortless: soft white flowers on fine cotton. But before it reaches a shop, it may travel through half a dozen homes across Lucknow and its surrounding villages.
Morning: the block printer
The journey begins with wooden blocks dipped in a washable blue ink. The printer stamps the outline of every leaf and vine onto the cut fabric — a temporary map for the embroiderer.
Afternoon: the embroiderers
The printed pieces are carried out to embroiderers, a large majority of them women who work from home between household chores. Sitting in courtyards or by a window for good light, they work stitch by stitch — bakhiya for shadow work, phanda and murri for knots, jaali for delicate open net. One woman may specialise in a single stitch, passing the piece on to another for the next.
Evening: the washerman’s ghat
When the embroidery is finished, the cloth goes to the dhobi. Washing removes the blue lines, softens the cotton and brings the threads up. Rows of freshly washed chikan pieces drying in the sun are a classic Lucknow sight.
Gold on the side
Lucknow is also known for zardozi, raised embroidery with metallic thread, sequins and beads worked on a wooden frame called an adda. Where chikan whispers, zardozi shines — and today they are often combined on festive pieces.
“Lucknow Chikan” holds a Geographical Indication tag, protecting the name for work from the region.
Cover photo: Joey Berzowska, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0