Every shimmering border on a festive sari or the glint on a kurta neckline needs one thing: zari, metal thread fine enough to weave or embroider. The word comes from the Persian zar, gold, and for centuries one city has been especially famous for it — Surat in southern Gujarat.
A craft in the lanes of the old city
Zari-making grew under Mughal-era trade, when Surat was one of India’s busiest ports. Workshops cluster in old neighbourhoods such as Gopipura, Wadifalia and Saiyedpura, and many are still family-run, with work passing between homes. In 2010, the “Surat Zari Craft” received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, recognising the city’s distinct tradition.
From metal bar to thread
- Drawing: silver (or copper, for imitation zari) is pulled through ever-smaller holes until it becomes a hair-fine wire.
- Flattening: the wire is pressed into a flat ribbon called badla.
- Winding: the ribbon is wrapped tightly around a silk or cotton core.
- Gilding: for gold zari, the thread is electroplated with a thin layer of gold, then reeled into small skeins.
Real, tested or imitation?
Traditional “real” zari uses silver with gold plating; “tested” zari uses copper with a silver coating; and modern metallic yarns are made from polyester film. Each has its place — but the warm, soft glow of hand-finished zari is something you notice the moment you touch it.
