Hold a chikankari kurta up to the light and you will see it: soft, smoky shapes of leaves and vines that seem to float inside the fabric. That effect has a name — shadow work — and it is the signature of Lucknow’s most famous craft.
A craft with royal patrons
Chikankari grew under Mughal-era patronage, and popular legend credits Empress Nur Jahan with bringing it into fashion. Lucknow has been its home for centuries, and in 2008 “Lucknow Chikan” received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, protecting its identity.
Stitches worth knowing
- Bakhiya – the shadow stitch, worked on the reverse so the motif glows through.
- Phanda – tiny knots that look like seeds or millet grains.
- Murri – rice-shaped knots that give flowers a raised centre.
- Jaali – threads are gently teased apart to create an open, net-like window without cutting the fabric.
From block to bloom
A design is first block-printed in a washable ink, embroidered by hand, then washed until only the stitches remain. A single piece can pass through many hands — which is why no two are ever quite the same.
Wear it: our Kora Cotton Pastel Pink Chikankari Suit Set and Pastel Blue Chikankari Suit Set are made for long, warm days.